Mascman's Beetlejuice V3 LCC MOA

[MASCMAN]

I got my dig switch replaced by RC4WD and was able to really spend some time running this as an MOA. With the defective switch, I could run about 8 minutes then loose control of the front motor...now, I ran one Lipo for 25 minutes and another for 30 before the LVC kicked in. Thanks to RC4WD for the outstanding service!

In getting to run that much, I was able to really get a feel for the MOA LCC. There were a couple spots were I was having more trouble with the MOA than when it was a shafty...it's hard for me to explain, but I think it has something to do with the weight being directly at the axle.

Before, you could drag the skid over breakovers, but now it feels like the added weight was making that more difficult. Maybe not actually the added weight, but more the placement of it was noticeable and it got me thinking that this chassis wasn't the best option for an MOA LCC.

Pappy mentioned at the last comp that I could make a Losi Beetlejuice...at the time, I was just happy to have the MOA conversion done and running, but when I checked it out, the amount of clearance was the deciding factor.

---------- Post added at 10:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:55 AM ----------

At first I was going to try and use the stock links in the front and then make custom bent ones for the rear.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0509000808.jpg

I'll be drilling new holes to mount my uppers as the MOA conversion leaves the links in the stock location...which is not where I want them.

The upper links will likely be custom made and probably need some bends to clear everything. I'll be mounting my links here:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0509000812.jpg

---------- Post added at 11:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:59 AM ----------

Here's where I'm at right now...can't do much more until I get the MOA brackets off and drill / tap them.

Couple of comparison pics. I really like the DMG Tuber and hate to give it up. :(

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0507001745.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0509001015.jpg

Ride height is pretty much where it should be...may be tweaked after the upper links are finished.

I ended up just bending the stock links and using a combo of stock and Traxas rod ends, was able to get it where it needs to be.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0507001744.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0509001025a.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0509001025.jpg

[Rockbound]

looking good, you will love the new chassis. :tmbup:

[Pappy]

Looks really good Mascman, however, you might want to plan to get the front motor up inside the bottom links, if you haven't planned to do so already. Wow, you came a long way in your rig since last year at this time!!!!! And you say you don't try hard enough.:)

Also, where do you plan to locate your battery?

[DRCrawlGood]

Looks really good Mascman, however, you might want to plan to get the front motor up inside the bottom links, if you haven't planned to do so already. Wow, you came a long way in your rig since last year at this time!!!!! And you say you don't try hard enough.:)

Also, where do you plan to locate your battery?

What you see is what you get with the Losi Moa kit, motors are there to stay in that position.

[Rockbound]

What you see is what you get with the Losi Moa kit, motors are there to stay in that position.

not if you lengthen the upper links, or shorten the lower links, or a little of both ;) notice his rear motor up and out of the way :tmbup:

i was thinking the same thing looking at the pics, that motor will hit and hang up on everything.

[DRCrawlGood]

not if you lengthen the upper links, or shorten the lower links, or a little of both ;) notice his rear motor up and out of the way :tmbup:

i was thinking the same thing looking at the pics, that motor will hit and hang up on everything.

You are correct to a point, with a truck that has no caster this would create positive caster but since the losi already has alot of negative caster he should be fine by doing the link method you described above.

[MASCMAN]

If you look at the top pic of when it had the stock chassis, you can see where the front motor was...it was never a problem and these is zero rock rash on it.

There are no top links hooked up in these pics. I actually am going to grab the MOA brackets and go drill them out now...equipment is over Parent's house.

The battery is staying on the rear axle and once the custom links are done, I'll get some pics.

Thanks!

---------- Post added at 04:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:23 PM ----------

Got the brackets drilled and tapped for 3mm. Now I can get the top links done when I get some more time.

Anyone else get nervous when the tap is half-way through? I'm always afraid I'm going to break that sucker!

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0509001613.jpg

[DRCrawlGood]

You check the plates for straightness? Stick was talking to a few guys at ECC and if you notice this kit isn't entirely "square". Essentially the brackets are not very true and it makes for odd pinion angels which can pre-maturely break parts. I dont the whole story of it since I dont run that kit, but he may be someone to look up before you thrash parts left and right like him.

[MASCMAN]

You check the plates for straightness? Stick was talking to a few guys at ECC and if you notice this kit isn't entirely "square". Essentially the brackets are not very true and it makes for odd pinion angels which can pre-maturely break parts. I dont the whole story of it since I dont run that kit, but he may be someone to look up before you thrash parts left and right like him.

The problem is with the 5th bolt on the axle housing...the smaller one.

With the bracket off, you just shave a little off the post it threads into...basically, the bottom of the Eritex mount should have been machined deeper.

The higher post keeps the plate from sitting flush and angles the motor gear away from the axle gear...mine are shaved and the gears mesh well.

With the BLC re-gear, this thing is quiet and smooth.

[MASCMAN]

I didn't have to make any links. I just used the stockers, with some spacers here and there. Replaced the Losi balls with some Traxxas ones so I can use my 3mm hardware. I'll run it like this and see how the links work...maybe some cutom ones in the future.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0509001830.jpg

Finished ride height...should help on break-overs.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0509001833.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0509001842.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0509001843.jpg

I was able to get more steering also with the shocks mounted inside the chassis.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0509001841.jpg

[Rockbound]

looking really good! :tmbup: front motor up out of the way and all.

going to be crazy seeing everyone with a new rig on sunday :crzy:

[Pappy]

Looks good.....What's going on with the panels? Did you buy the ones with the chassis?

[MASCMAN]

Looks good.....What's going on with the panels? Did you buy the ones with the chassis?

Yeah...$18 for plastic!

Think I may just make some quicky ones and keep those for something later on.

[Pappy]

Aww, C'mon you got to unveil a finished rig! And besides $18 and they are cut so perfect and so heavy duty. :) After working 6 days a week, you got to stimulate the economy somehow!!!:tmbup:

[MASCMAN]

Aww, C'mon you got to unveil a finished rig! And besides $18 and they are cut so perfect and so heavy duty. :) After working 6 days a week, you got to stimulate the economy somehow!!!:tmbup:

If I wanted to print my own graphics like you did, what type of paper and glue did you use?

How about a little tutorial?:tmbup:

[Pappy]

I Didn't take pictures of me doing it, but basically I printed out what I wanted on regular old typing paper (the stuff you put in your printer for day to day printing) and printed it out. I laid each panel on the printed paper, and cut around the panel with a hobby knife. I cleaned each panel with medical type alcohol, painted the paper cut outs with XXX Main glue, and stuck them on, and lightly squeeged out any air bubbles. Coat the back of the paper in glue as well to seal it at this point.....Let dry...trim the excess paper off the edges as it stretches a little. Coat the back with lexan paint......I used black......Let dry, and mount your completed panels!:tmbup:8-)

[Rockbound]

I Didn't take pictures of me doing it, but basically I printed out what I wanted on regular old typing paper (the stuff you put in your printer for day to day printing) and printed it out. I laid each panel on the printed paper, and cut around the panel with a hobby knife. I cleaned each panel with medical type alcohol, painted the paper cut outs with XXX Main glue, and stuck them on, and lightly squeeged out any air bubbles. Coat the back of the paper in glue as well to seal it at this point.....Let dry...trim the excess paper off the edges as it stretches a little. Coat the back with lexan paint......I used black......Let dry, and mount your completed panels!:tmbup:8-)

nice.
:tmbup:

[MASCMAN]

I have some of that clear Elmer's glue...wonder if that would work. These panels don't flex, so it may be alright.

Thanks for the info!

I may work on the electronics today.

There is a lot of stuff to cram in there! I'm thinking of using a Lexan plate that is longer than the skid, fastened only in the middle. This will allow the tray to flex if the links push on it...sound good?

---------- Post added at 03:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:13 PM ----------

Got my Sedonas and also some white steel wheels and Flat Irons for the scaler...hope I can stay focused on getting the electronics done!:crzy:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0510001520.jpg

[MASCMAN]

This chassis is nice and compact...so compact that I was wondering how the heck I would fit the electronics in it. I run the Lipo on the rear axle so that helps free up some space.

I decided to make a lexan plate that would be anchored in the center of the chassis, and the ends are free to move if the links push on them.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0510001646.jpg

Glued the ESC and Dig switch in place and using 3M dual lock to hold the RX in. It all fits!
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0511000849.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0511001324.jpg

Gave my front links a bend to clear the shocks better.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0511001324a.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0511001325.jpg

Rear has no clearance issues.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0511001327.jpg

Everything seems to fit well with not much room to spare. Just need to route and secure the wiring and get some panels on it.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0511001328.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0511001329.jpg

I may put the stock foams in the Sedonas. This rig seems too light for the PL memory foams now. I'm sure they would work, but the stock foams may not fold / bound up as much as I thought it would.

Stay tuned for panels.:tmbup:

[Rockbound]

looks awesome!

like i said before, the stock foams work really well. :tmbup:

[Pappy]

I got two esc's in mine!!!! So what if they were FXR's! LOL! Yes tight fit indeed, as I never thought the Mamba was gonna fit to be honest! My Rx is velcro'd to the underside of the roof panel! What is the weight of it on Losi axles?

[MASCMAN]

I got two esc's in mine!!!! So what if they were FXR's! LOL! Yes tight fit indeed, as I never thought the Mamba was gonna fit to be honest! My Rx is velcro'd to the underside of the roof panel! What is the weight of it on Losi axles?

I don't know...maybe I'll get it to work and weigh it.

[MASCMAN]

I couldn't decide on what I wanted to do for panels, and I want to save my laser cut panels for some nice graphics.

For some reason, I saved a couple Monster cans so I figured, let's do some experimenting!

I would be really surprised if these last more than one comp...but it doesn't matter anyway. it was kind of fun and interesting as these are folded over to stiffen them and protect from the sharp edges...it was metal-gamy!

Still need to make a hood, but I may grab some lexan to do that.

So what do you think...MASCMAN'S MONSTER BEETLE!

[Pappy]

That turned out really good!!! I like it!!!

What shocks are those and what length?

[Rockbound]

yep looks great!:tmbup:

[MASCMAN]

That turned out really good!!! I like it!!!

What shocks are those and what length?

I don't know what the shocks are...they came with the truck.:crzy:

Ok...since you won't figure it out, they are stock Losi with Gold springs.:tmbup:

Got to drive through 2 Lipos today and it's a pretty nice set up.

The Sedonas are going to take a little getting used to though...seems you have to work a little harder with them than the Rovers.

It could be that I am just not used to them and not sure what to expect, but you have to hit stuff faster whereas the Rover would just creep up. Have to change my mindset as I'm afraid of overshooting stuff due to the speed.

The rocks were a little slimy since all the rain so it was hard to compare, but this chassis / moa setup feels better to me than LCC shafty with stock chassis.

I love the instant digs and no binding so that is enough to make me not go back to shafts.

Grabbed some Lexan and will just need to make a hood and I'm ready for Sunday!

Thanks for the compliments...the panels held up to 1 hour of crawling and still look decent...I didn't beat it too bad since I don't want to break something so close to the comp.

50915092

[MASCMAN]

Last update and I'm done. I am taking it to work so maybe I can weigh it.

New hood, new roof and now with the Pro-line 2 stage foams in.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0514001709a.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0514001709.jpg

[mustangboy_347]

what is that on the back axle a battery ...? i would try to move it to the front some how ...i could never get my BJ to work right with the battery at the rear...good luck see you sunday

[MASCMAN]

what is that on the back axle a battery ...? i would try to move it to the front some how ...i could never get my BJ to work right with the battery at the rear...good luck see you sunday

I only run 2 oz. in each rear wheel and they are plastic so it helps. I've run it on there for a while now...it won't fit anywhere else.

I've weighed it and the ESC (which a lot of people run on the axle) and there is basically no difference.

I'll make do with it.:tmbup:

[mustangboy_347]

awesome ...just had to ask , i have seen some funky stuff lately and thought i would ask :tmbup:

[Pappy]

what is that on the back axle a battery ...? i would try to move it to the front some how ...i could never get my BJ to work right with the battery at the rear...good luck see you sunday

Yeah, with the LCC running MOA setup. the motors pretty much take up any room between the links that would normally hold a battery.....

But good call out though, I thought he had a drag car parachute on there at first!:pok::skrd:

[MASCMAN]

Yeah, with the LCC running MOA setup. the motors pretty much take up any room between the links that would normally hold a battery.....

But good call out though, I thought he had a drag car parachute on there at first!:pok::skrd:


I could fit it on the links, or on the skid, but then the electronics would need moved...everything is in and it works so I am happy with it.

The Lipo probably looks bulkier than it really is because I have a piece of plastic duck taped to the top to help protect it.

I'm getting 30 minutes out of my 1300mah so I could probably go with a little smaller one...maybe when Pappy isn't looking!:evil:

---------- Post added at 08:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:59 AM ----------

Took the MONSTER to work and got some specs.

RTR weight = 5.6lbs
Lipo = 4.1 oz.

Wheels
Front total = 13 oz.
Rear total = 9.2 oz.

Also measured the weight of the front and rear separately while leveling the truck.
Front on scale = 2.7lbs
Rear on scale = 2.4lbs

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0515000058.jpg

[EvilTwin v2]

Greg used to run his battery on his rear axle, until he took a nasty tumble on the rocks, hitting the Lipo pretty hard. The top cell swelled almost immediately. At that point, I took the battery off and hung it from the rear upper links.

It's simply not worth taking a chance on having it exposed like that.

Oh, and you might want to try moving some more weight around.

I used to run a similiar balance to that, but found that I'm much better on the climbs with a much heavier front bias. I now have all the electronics in the center and the battery toward the front. With my VP DH front w/ full slugs and SLW's in the rear with no weight, I'm now at 10 oz per wheel heavier in the front than the rear.

I'd suggest taking the weight out of your rear wheels & trying to at least get the battery into a more protected position.

[MASCMAN]

I'm not too concerned with damaging the Lipo. It has a Plexiglass cover on it...if it gets damage, the crawler is going to need major repairs and the Lipo would be the least of my worry.

One thing I've noticed with this truck as a shafty or moa is that the rear will come up when descending. I really can't imagine making the rear lighter. I know the worms play a part in this and you need throttle control to keep from flipping forward.

I'll keep it as-is for now and see how it does for the comp. I'm just glad I got it all together and ready in time.

Maybe you can drive it at the comp and let me know what you think? Although some of the things may be the same, I think it has different characteristics than the other MOA set ups because of the placement of the motors.

[EvilTwin v2]

I'm not too concerned with damaging the Lipo. It has a Plexiglass cover on it...if it gets damage, the crawler is going to need major repairs and the Lipo would be the least of my worry.

One thing I've noticed with this truck as a shafty or moa is that the rear will come up when descending. I really can't imagine making the rear lighter. I know the worms play a part in this and you need throttle control to keep from flipping forward.

I'll keep it as-is for now and see how it does for the comp. I'm just glad I got it all together and ready in time.

Maybe you can drive it at the comp and let me know what you think? Although some of the things may be the same, I think it has different characteristics than the other MOA set ups because of the placement of the motors.

Yeah, I'll definately give it a run. That's really all you can do with any truck. Start with a base setup and then run it and experiment. Just try to only change 1 thing at a time. :tmbup:

Stick King may also be able to give some advice. He's been running his MOA Losi for a while now, and does really well with it as long as he can keep it together.

[Rockbound]

pretty much.. every truck is different, what works for some may not work for others. you just need to set it up how you are comfortable, and feel good about it. drive it, learn it, and make small changes, 1 at time so you know exactly which ones worked, and which ones didn't
:tmbup:

[MASCMAN]

I just changed out the stock Losi wheels for my RC4WD Special edition wheels since I am not using them on my scaler.

They are a little wider than the Losi's and I like the way it spreads the tire with the taller Pro-line foam. On the stock wheels, they seemed stiffer and now they feel like they will conform more.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0521000835.jpg

Total weight for fronts is 11.9oz and rears are 8.1, which actually makes my rig lighter by 2.2oz. It must be a step in the right direction because a test crawl allowed me to get up and over things that had to be "finessed" before. I have a little better control now that I can keep the speed down.

Since the wheels had faux hubs and centers, I filled the holes back up with the bolts...I kind of like it. I may get some shiny button heads just to dress it up some if these wheels work out for me. I've already replaced the original bolts for black button heads that gave me better clearance on the steering knuckles.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0521000836.jpg

Looks dull without the bolts...
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0521000837.jpg
Looks better to me.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-12/76747/0521000837a.jpg

[Rockbound]

much better with the bolts.

looking good! :tmbup:

lighter is better
8-)

[Rckcrwlr]

Looking good...

[Rockbound]

how are you liking the sedonnas??

[MASCMAN]

how are you liking the sedonnas??

I honestly thought I made a mistake in buying them...couldn't get them working for me at the last comp and was wishing for my Rovers.

After finishing course 2, Mustangboy and Bullfrog had me turn the tires in direction A...they were going B forward just because I read that some liked them like that.

I was instantly able to slow crawl a ledge that I had just needed to throttle over...Mustang noticed, and that's when he told me to change direction.

In my testing area, there were two separate spots that required me to throttle up, which now, I can crawl more controllably at a slower speed.

I can also pull up to a ledge, and using FWD pull the rear tires off the ground, shift into 4wd and finish the climb...before the switch, it didn't want to pull the rears up a steep ledge...just wanted to spin in FWD and roll backwards in 4WD.

The tires are also feeling better with a little wear on them. Just like Rovers, they seem to get better with some wear.

Only thing I am worried about is pulling out the bead. I didn't have all the bolts in when I tested and the beads were starting to pull out. These are older wheels and I think the recess isn't as deep as newer wheels. I bought new button heads and made sure each bead was seated last night at work...think they are good now.

I'm happy with the way this rig is driving and I think the next comp will be better for me as I learn the way it drives. For the first 2 comps, it has been 2 different rigs...I can now focus on fine-tuning and learning to drive it.

[Pappy]

I can now focus on learning to drive it. :confused0068:


:) Admitting it to yourself is the first step.:tmbup:

[DRCrawlGood]

Soon as mike stops thinking of "guys in thongs", he may become a better driver.

[MASCMAN]

Soon as mike stops thinking of "guys in thongs", he may become a better driver.

NO means NO, Chris!

Quit sending me those pictures!
:ban: