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Use this guide to help you out in building your clod based crawler. Feel free to ask any questions..
enjoy!
How do I wire the motors:
Clod crawlers should be wired in parallel.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/ ... vised3.jpg
What about ClodStall?? Can I just run another esc?
Clod stall is caused by differing loads on each motor. Each motor recieves a set voltage from the esc for any givin point on the throttle. For example lets say that 1/4 throttle deliveres 2 volts to the motor. This will only produce a set amount of amps, amps=torque. So now you have 2 motors putting out a set amount of torque. While climbing the rear receives more load. If this load exceeds the amount of torque the motor will stall. In a clod the rear will get more load durring a climb, so while the torque supplied by said 2 volts isn't enough to power the more heavily loaded rear it is enough to spin the front. Stall.
So if you just add another esc with a y harness this is what happens, you give the truck 1/4 throttle, the esc's get the same signal, they send 2 volts to the motors. No difference. Waisted ESC.
While driving there is an infinite variable of load between the front and rear. No setup will automaticly adjust for this, only slight compensation can be achieved.
The only cure is to learn to drive a twin stick radio with no mixing. You control both esc's all the time. It also opens up a whole new world of abilities to the world of compitition.
What about adjustable motor mounts to run different pinion gears?
There was a time when we had to modify the cases to fit different pinions. Now the best thing to do is check with any of the vendors for adjustable motor mounts. They are inexpensive and much better than trying to modify the gear cases.
What motors should I use?
65 and 75 turn motors are great for rigs running big 6.5"+ tires or heavier rigs. They have loads of torque.
35, 45, and 55 turn motors are great for 2.2 Clods or lightweight rigs running bigger tires. These offer more tire speed than the 65 and 75 turn motors but have less torque.
Consider running 8 cells or more, most lathe motors were designed for 12 volts anyway.
All DYNO information is an average of (4) 20 second runs at 7.2 Volts.
DYNO used was an INTEGY INDI DYNO V2.
NEW INTEGY 45T single Lathe motor -- 9325 Rpm's and .66 Amps
NEW INTEGY 55T single Lathe motor -- 8450 Rpm's and .62 Amps
NEW INTEGY 65T single Lathe motor -- 6400 Rpm's and .43 Amps
Used TRAXXAS Stinger 20t single -- 18500 Rpm's and 1.94 Amps
Used TITAN 550 -- 13400 Rpm's and 1.68 Amps
PLEASE keep in mind these numbers will vary slightly depending on the condition of your motor/s.
Brushless motors have loads of torque and can spin fast as well. Though they require a brushless speed control.
How do I do a front dig setup?
D.U.D setup
You must use a switch that sends power while in the up position. Then when it’s hit by the servo it shuts the power off.
Step One: Mount your Servo and Switch on the rear axle. Don’t worry about the horn hitting the switch yet. You can adjust that when it’s all done. Just make sure they are close enough so they will make contact. I used one 3mm 1/2in bolt and a lock nut with a nylon insert to mount the switch. The Servo is mounted with Heavy Duty Velcro. The Velcro is from Radio Shack. It has a 20lb pull on it. So it can handle any servo your choose with ease. I then used a big Zip tie just to make sure it wasn’t going anywhere.
Step Two: Wire up your front motor to the Neg and Pos from your ESC. Your motor should have 4 post on it. So you will have one Neg and one Pos left. Now solder a Pos wire to the Pos post thats left and wire that to the rear motors Pos post.
Step Three: Solder a Neg wire to the last Neg post on the front motor and run it to the switch. The switch as 2 post in it. Just choose one and solder the other end of the Neg wire to it. Now solder a short piece to the other post on the switch and then to the rear motors neg’s post.
Step Four: Now hit your channel button on your radio to test it. Adjust your horn so that it matches up with the button on the switch.
How do I lock the diffs?
You can either "weld" up the spider gears with hot glue, Shoe Goo, or JB Weld. Or buy lockers from the vendors.
Click here for detailed instructions viewtopic.php?f=93&t=506
What rod ends should I use?
These rod ends work with 6-32 or 4-40 threaded rod.
-Most common is the Traxxas Maxx rod end (part number 1942):
-Some people use the Associated MGT rod ends (part number 25121):
These rod ends work well with 8-32 or 4mm threaded rod.
-The Traxxas Revo rod end (part number 5347):
-The Traxxas Jato Rod end (part number 5525):
How do I adapt wheels to the Clod Axles?
Clod axles have a 12mm hex, many of the vendors sell hex adapters and wideners to allow you to run wheels with 12mm hex, 14mm hex, 17mm hex, and 23mm hex.
TMaxx, EMaxx, Savage, etc wheels are 14mm hex so you will need a 12 to 14 mm adapter.
Proline 40 series wheels can be found in 14mm hex and 23mm hex.
Axial 40 series wheels use a 17mm hex.
Maxximizer wheels come with 14mm hex or 17mm hex.
What is offset and backspacing and what's the difference?
The offset of a wheel is what locates the tire and wheel assembly in relation to the suspension. More specifically, it is the measured distance between the hub mounting surface and the center line of the rim.
Positive Offset
A positive offset occurs when the hub mounting surface is on the street side (the side you see) of the center line of the rim. Most factory rims will have this type of offset.
Zero Offset
When the hub mounting surface is centered within the rim, it is known as a zero offset.
Negative Offset
If the hub mounting surface is on the brake side of the center line of the rim, it is considered a negative offset or "deep dish".
The easiest way to measure backspace is to lay the wheel face down onto the ground so the backside of the wheel is facing up. Take a straight edge and lay it diagonally across the inboard flange of the wheel. Take a tape measure and measure the distance from where the straight edge contacts the inboard flange to the hub mounting pad of the wheel.
************************************************** ************************************************** ******************
How to Measure Wheel BackSpace
Items required to measure wheel backspace: 
Tape measure Straight edge Wheel w/o tire (preferred)
The easiest way to measure backspace is to lay the wheel face down onto the ground so the backside of the wheel is facing up. Take a straight edge and lay it diagonally across the inboard flange of the wheel. Take a tape measure and measure the distance from where the straight edge contacts the inboard flange to the hub mounting pad of the wheel. This measurement is backspace. The above photo shows three wheels with 2",3", & 4" backspace.
Measuring Wheel Offset
To calculate offset you'll need the following measurements:
Wheel backspace Wheel Width Wheel Center line (outboard flange to inboard flange measurement / 2) Subtract:
Wheel center line from Wheel backspace to get offset. 
If backspace is less than the wheel centerline the offset is negative If backspace is greater than the wheel centerline the offset is positive Tip:
To convert from inches to mm multiply by 25.4 To convert from mm to inches divide by 25.4
Backspace to Offset Conversion Chart The table on the right is q quick reference for finding offset, pick the rim width and follow the row over to the backspace of your wheel.
************************************************** ************************************************** ******************
Link to Tamiya's manual on the Clodbuster
http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanu ... buster.pdf (3.22Mb)
Hope this helps.
enjoy!
How do I wire the motors:
Clod crawlers should be wired in parallel.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/ ... vised3.jpg
What about ClodStall?? Can I just run another esc?
Clod stall is caused by differing loads on each motor. Each motor recieves a set voltage from the esc for any givin point on the throttle. For example lets say that 1/4 throttle deliveres 2 volts to the motor. This will only produce a set amount of amps, amps=torque. So now you have 2 motors putting out a set amount of torque. While climbing the rear receives more load. If this load exceeds the amount of torque the motor will stall. In a clod the rear will get more load durring a climb, so while the torque supplied by said 2 volts isn't enough to power the more heavily loaded rear it is enough to spin the front. Stall.
So if you just add another esc with a y harness this is what happens, you give the truck 1/4 throttle, the esc's get the same signal, they send 2 volts to the motors. No difference. Waisted ESC.
While driving there is an infinite variable of load between the front and rear. No setup will automaticly adjust for this, only slight compensation can be achieved.
The only cure is to learn to drive a twin stick radio with no mixing. You control both esc's all the time. It also opens up a whole new world of abilities to the world of compitition.
What about adjustable motor mounts to run different pinion gears?
There was a time when we had to modify the cases to fit different pinions. Now the best thing to do is check with any of the vendors for adjustable motor mounts. They are inexpensive and much better than trying to modify the gear cases.
What motors should I use?
65 and 75 turn motors are great for rigs running big 6.5"+ tires or heavier rigs. They have loads of torque.
35, 45, and 55 turn motors are great for 2.2 Clods or lightweight rigs running bigger tires. These offer more tire speed than the 65 and 75 turn motors but have less torque.
Consider running 8 cells or more, most lathe motors were designed for 12 volts anyway.
All DYNO information is an average of (4) 20 second runs at 7.2 Volts.
DYNO used was an INTEGY INDI DYNO V2.
NEW INTEGY 45T single Lathe motor -- 9325 Rpm's and .66 Amps
NEW INTEGY 55T single Lathe motor -- 8450 Rpm's and .62 Amps
NEW INTEGY 65T single Lathe motor -- 6400 Rpm's and .43 Amps
Used TRAXXAS Stinger 20t single -- 18500 Rpm's and 1.94 Amps
Used TITAN 550 -- 13400 Rpm's and 1.68 Amps
PLEASE keep in mind these numbers will vary slightly depending on the condition of your motor/s.
Brushless motors have loads of torque and can spin fast as well. Though they require a brushless speed control.
How do I do a front dig setup?
D.U.D setup
You must use a switch that sends power while in the up position. Then when it’s hit by the servo it shuts the power off.
Step One: Mount your Servo and Switch on the rear axle. Don’t worry about the horn hitting the switch yet. You can adjust that when it’s all done. Just make sure they are close enough so they will make contact. I used one 3mm 1/2in bolt and a lock nut with a nylon insert to mount the switch. The Servo is mounted with Heavy Duty Velcro. The Velcro is from Radio Shack. It has a 20lb pull on it. So it can handle any servo your choose with ease. I then used a big Zip tie just to make sure it wasn’t going anywhere.
Step Two: Wire up your front motor to the Neg and Pos from your ESC. Your motor should have 4 post on it. So you will have one Neg and one Pos left. Now solder a Pos wire to the Pos post thats left and wire that to the rear motors Pos post.
Step Three: Solder a Neg wire to the last Neg post on the front motor and run it to the switch. The switch as 2 post in it. Just choose one and solder the other end of the Neg wire to it. Now solder a short piece to the other post on the switch and then to the rear motors neg’s post.
Step Four: Now hit your channel button on your radio to test it. Adjust your horn so that it matches up with the button on the switch.
How do I lock the diffs?
You can either "weld" up the spider gears with hot glue, Shoe Goo, or JB Weld. Or buy lockers from the vendors.
Click here for detailed instructions viewtopic.php?f=93&t=506
What rod ends should I use?
These rod ends work with 6-32 or 4-40 threaded rod.
-Most common is the Traxxas Maxx rod end (part number 1942):
-Some people use the Associated MGT rod ends (part number 25121):
These rod ends work well with 8-32 or 4mm threaded rod.
-The Traxxas Revo rod end (part number 5347):
-The Traxxas Jato Rod end (part number 5525):
How do I adapt wheels to the Clod Axles?
Clod axles have a 12mm hex, many of the vendors sell hex adapters and wideners to allow you to run wheels with 12mm hex, 14mm hex, 17mm hex, and 23mm hex.
TMaxx, EMaxx, Savage, etc wheels are 14mm hex so you will need a 12 to 14 mm adapter.
Proline 40 series wheels can be found in 14mm hex and 23mm hex.
Axial 40 series wheels use a 17mm hex.
Maxximizer wheels come with 14mm hex or 17mm hex.
What is offset and backspacing and what's the difference?
The offset of a wheel is what locates the tire and wheel assembly in relation to the suspension. More specifically, it is the measured distance between the hub mounting surface and the center line of the rim.
Positive Offset
A positive offset occurs when the hub mounting surface is on the street side (the side you see) of the center line of the rim. Most factory rims will have this type of offset.
Zero Offset
When the hub mounting surface is centered within the rim, it is known as a zero offset.
Negative Offset
If the hub mounting surface is on the brake side of the center line of the rim, it is considered a negative offset or "deep dish".
The easiest way to measure backspace is to lay the wheel face down onto the ground so the backside of the wheel is facing up. Take a straight edge and lay it diagonally across the inboard flange of the wheel. Take a tape measure and measure the distance from where the straight edge contacts the inboard flange to the hub mounting pad of the wheel.
************************************************** ************************************************** ******************
How to Measure Wheel BackSpace
Items required to measure wheel backspace: Tape measure Straight edge Wheel w/o tire (preferred) The easiest way to measure backspace is to lay the wheel face down onto the ground so the backside of the wheel is facing up. Take a straight edge and lay it diagonally across the inboard flange of the wheel. Take a tape measure and measure the distance from where the straight edge contacts the inboard flange to the hub mounting pad of the wheel. This measurement is backspace. The above photo shows three wheels with 2",3", & 4" backspace.
Measuring Wheel OffsetTo calculate offset you'll need the following measurements:
Wheel backspace Wheel Width Wheel Center line (outboard flange to inboard flange measurement / 2) Subtract:Wheel center line from Wheel backspace to get offset. If backspace is less than the wheel centerline the offset is negative If backspace is greater than the wheel centerline the offset is positive Tip:To convert from inches to mm multiply by 25.4 To convert from mm to inches divide by 25.4 Backspace to Offset Conversion Chart The table on the right is q quick reference for finding offset, pick the rim width and follow the row over to the backspace of your wheel.************************************************** ************************************************** ******************
Link to Tamiya's manual on the Clodbuster
http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanu ... buster.pdf (3.22Mb)
Hope this helps.