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Here is a step by step process of narrowing your Proline Cheyenne Narrow Bead-Loc 40 Series 23mm HD.
First thing I did was decide how wide I wanted them.
I set the Drill Press with an abrasive Cutting wheel at the width.
I then started, slowly, to cut the wheel...you do not want to melt it...let the wheel do the cutting.
When you have cut through it cleanly, get the top half (the side that you are removing from the wheel?
I ran a sharpie along the crease so I could see it...then using either a hacksaw or lower the drill press and remove the excess inside wheel. You want the rim to be a flush as you can. I used a rasp to get it closer.
You will then need to remove all the chrome on any parts that will need glued. I used a drum sander on my dremel.
It's real important to get all the chrome off.
You also want to carefully to slowly grind down the wheel to a tapered edge and also the rim needs to be ground down to just outside the bead screw holes.
Test fit the rim to the wheel and mark it so that it is straight. Also, you need to have the rim slightly above the edge of the inner wheel due to the beadloc that extense down. Dry fit it with the ring on. That will give you the correct depth.
Now you will need to clean all the dust of them. I used an electric cleaner and a clean rag. I then sprayed the wheel section with the CA accelerator and placed the rim on the wheel based on the marks and checked for round and straight. I then ran CA Glue on the inside of the wheel. The accelerator will assist in the excess running. Let it dry.
Finally I ran a bead of CA on the other side of the rim so that it would run down in the gaps of the wheel and rim to give extra hold.
Here are the final outcomes. As you can see, it gives the Moab XL a better profile. I cut the foams in a star pattern which give me a ton of grip.
Good Luck,
John
First thing I did was decide how wide I wanted them.
I set the Drill Press with an abrasive Cutting wheel at the width.
I then started, slowly, to cut the wheel...you do not want to melt it...let the wheel do the cutting.
When you have cut through it cleanly, get the top half (the side that you are removing from the wheel?
I ran a sharpie along the crease so I could see it...then using either a hacksaw or lower the drill press and remove the excess inside wheel. You want the rim to be a flush as you can. I used a rasp to get it closer.
You will then need to remove all the chrome on any parts that will need glued. I used a drum sander on my dremel.
It's real important to get all the chrome off.
You also want to carefully to slowly grind down the wheel to a tapered edge and also the rim needs to be ground down to just outside the bead screw holes.
Test fit the rim to the wheel and mark it so that it is straight. Also, you need to have the rim slightly above the edge of the inner wheel due to the beadloc that extense down. Dry fit it with the ring on. That will give you the correct depth.
Now you will need to clean all the dust of them. I used an electric cleaner and a clean rag. I then sprayed the wheel section with the CA accelerator and placed the rim on the wheel based on the marks and checked for round and straight. I then ran CA Glue on the inside of the wheel. The accelerator will assist in the excess running. Let it dry.
Finally I ran a bead of CA on the other side of the rim so that it would run down in the gaps of the wheel and rim to give extra hold.
Here are the final outcomes. As you can see, it gives the Moab XL a better profile. I cut the foams in a star pattern which give me a ton of grip.
Good Luck,
John